Post by beetlehorn on Oct 13, 2012 21:41:35 GMT -8
A few years ago I wrote a rather thorough post on rearing Dynastes tityus, that is still in the old forum archives. I am still seeing newcomers asking questions about this activity, and it seems to me that the questions are of genuine concern, so I have decided to make a new thread in regards to the methods I used in the past to successfully rear these beetles. It is my opinion that this technique will work just fine for other Dynastes beetles. So for those of you getting started, or are considering doing this I will go into detail so as to satisfy any questions you might have.
First you will need some rearing containers. I used plastic storage containers from Walmart, and the main ones will hold at least 15 gallons of substrate. The smaller ones will hold about 5 gallons. The substrate is made in preparation and sterilized for the young grubs to start feeding in. I go into a hardwood forest and look for decomposed wood from Oak, Hickory, Maple, Ash, or Elm. No evergreen woods should be used, because the naturally occurring chemicals in the wood will kill your stock. When you find wood that will crumble, and break with your bare hands, you are on the right track. I also use decomposing hardwood leaves in my substrate. After gathering 50-70 gallons of this raw material I place it into a plastic garbage can, (30 gallons at a time) and I soak the entire batch in water for at least a week in order to kill any pests that could be present. Then I spread the contents on a tarpolian sheet and let it dry in the sun for a day or two. I then use a wood shredder and turn it all into a fine loam. I use about 30% leaves, 70% harwood mulch for my grubs. It should be moist enough to form a clump in your hand, but not so wet that you can squeeze water out of it easily.
After I have a good supply of substrate, and my containers ready, I go looking for a few adults to rear. I try to find large males and females. In one container (10 gallon) I put about 8 inches of substrate, and pack it down. I also use a small glass tray for feeding. I usually feed them a solution made from real maple syrup and fruit(50/50), or you can simply give them cut fruit. Place a few females and one or two males in together. They usually start breeding right away. Cover with a wire screen, but keep the container out of the rain, and direct sun. After the breeding process I separate the males from the females. You can keep the males alive, use them as specimens or just release them into their natural habitat. Do not release any species that is not indigenous to the area!! Take care of the females by giving them plenty of food, and never leave them in direct sunlight. They will begin ovipositing eggs in the substrate that they will tightly pack within a week or so. The eggs are about the size of a BB, and somewhat pearly white in color. After a few weeks you can transfer your ova/larvae into a larger container, using fresh substrate. This substrate can be left loose, (not packed down). The tiny 1st instars will grow rather quickly, and before you know it they will be triple in size. In about 18 months you should have 3rd instar larvae. Every month or two you can supplement your substrate with a handful of dry dog food. This will give your larvae additional nutrition. Remember to change your substrate every 8 months, or as needed so that the substrate doesn't become too full of frass. I usually place a few hardwood boards on top of my substrate. I often find my larvae at the bottom of my boards, it seems they like this kind of setup. The late stage 3rd instars are usually as large as a man's finger, and very robust. Just before they start making pupal chambers they will turn yellowish. That is when I put in a bit of sand on the bottom of the containers, in order to help in the construction of their pupal chambers. Throughout the entire life cycle I maintain consistent moisture levels, never let them dry out. The larger males usually take about 2and1/2 years to complete their life cycle. You will be able to feel the pupal chambers as you sift through your substrate. Thats when you know it's time to just leave them alone. Then one day a few months later you will notice sounds coming from your rearing containers, these beetles are usually massive and a handsome sight. This is the reward after more than 2 years of waiting, but it's never boring, because you will see progress throughout their life cycles.
First you will need some rearing containers. I used plastic storage containers from Walmart, and the main ones will hold at least 15 gallons of substrate. The smaller ones will hold about 5 gallons. The substrate is made in preparation and sterilized for the young grubs to start feeding in. I go into a hardwood forest and look for decomposed wood from Oak, Hickory, Maple, Ash, or Elm. No evergreen woods should be used, because the naturally occurring chemicals in the wood will kill your stock. When you find wood that will crumble, and break with your bare hands, you are on the right track. I also use decomposing hardwood leaves in my substrate. After gathering 50-70 gallons of this raw material I place it into a plastic garbage can, (30 gallons at a time) and I soak the entire batch in water for at least a week in order to kill any pests that could be present. Then I spread the contents on a tarpolian sheet and let it dry in the sun for a day or two. I then use a wood shredder and turn it all into a fine loam. I use about 30% leaves, 70% harwood mulch for my grubs. It should be moist enough to form a clump in your hand, but not so wet that you can squeeze water out of it easily.
After I have a good supply of substrate, and my containers ready, I go looking for a few adults to rear. I try to find large males and females. In one container (10 gallon) I put about 8 inches of substrate, and pack it down. I also use a small glass tray for feeding. I usually feed them a solution made from real maple syrup and fruit(50/50), or you can simply give them cut fruit. Place a few females and one or two males in together. They usually start breeding right away. Cover with a wire screen, but keep the container out of the rain, and direct sun. After the breeding process I separate the males from the females. You can keep the males alive, use them as specimens or just release them into their natural habitat. Do not release any species that is not indigenous to the area!! Take care of the females by giving them plenty of food, and never leave them in direct sunlight. They will begin ovipositing eggs in the substrate that they will tightly pack within a week or so. The eggs are about the size of a BB, and somewhat pearly white in color. After a few weeks you can transfer your ova/larvae into a larger container, using fresh substrate. This substrate can be left loose, (not packed down). The tiny 1st instars will grow rather quickly, and before you know it they will be triple in size. In about 18 months you should have 3rd instar larvae. Every month or two you can supplement your substrate with a handful of dry dog food. This will give your larvae additional nutrition. Remember to change your substrate every 8 months, or as needed so that the substrate doesn't become too full of frass. I usually place a few hardwood boards on top of my substrate. I often find my larvae at the bottom of my boards, it seems they like this kind of setup. The late stage 3rd instars are usually as large as a man's finger, and very robust. Just before they start making pupal chambers they will turn yellowish. That is when I put in a bit of sand on the bottom of the containers, in order to help in the construction of their pupal chambers. Throughout the entire life cycle I maintain consistent moisture levels, never let them dry out. The larger males usually take about 2and1/2 years to complete their life cycle. You will be able to feel the pupal chambers as you sift through your substrate. Thats when you know it's time to just leave them alone. Then one day a few months later you will notice sounds coming from your rearing containers, these beetles are usually massive and a handsome sight. This is the reward after more than 2 years of waiting, but it's never boring, because you will see progress throughout their life cycles.
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