how to deal with oil/fat outlet Lepidoptera?

[timoinsects]

some fresh hunted Lepidoptera oil/fat outlet when you take it back home from the begining you killed them or the dried specimens oil/fat will outlet even if they were already dried.

what are your methods to deal with thouse problem? to get out of them oil/fat.

[starlightcriminal]

Most of the time this is done with an acetone bath. There is a lot of discussion of acetone treatments on the board that you can check out for tips and tricks and the collective observations of many experienced (and not-so-experienced, like myself) collectors on the subject. The process is often referred to as degreasing. You can also eviscerate and stuff the abdomens of larger specimens if you have very good fine motor skills and fresh specimens. Probably there are even more options but we will have to wait to hear from someone with a greater breadth of experience than myself.

[timoinsects]

we hope to learn the best method of course. and this method should be easy to go.
if there're video links to teach,it would be great!

[starlightcriminal]

I don't know of a video, but what I do is to use a glass container used for baking, I think it is a corning dish for casseroles and such (be careful with plastics and many other materials with acetone as it will of course melt a lot of different materials... on a few plastics are acetone proof, usually they are opaque plastics) with a tightly fitting lid that I can punch holes in. Then I take the lid, drill a circle in it with a boring bit and insert a cork so that it plugs the hole. I take the insects I want to degrease and put the pin in the cork so that when the container is closed the insect is inside and upside down. Fill up the container, push the lid on and let the insect soak. Big specimens take longer and may require changing the acetone. You can tell if it is getting saturated because it will start to discolor. When the acetone stays clear then you are ready to take out the insect. Be aware that acetone is drying the specimen so it won't be re-positionable after this treatment, I always spread first and let it dry before treating.

Here is a link with some good photographs and a better description than the one I provided:

nitro.biosci.arizona.edu/zEEB/butterflies/relax.html

I use acetone from Fisher Scientific sometimes, they supply high grade acetone which has given me better results for preserving certain colors (if that is a concern, like with some beetles and dragonflies, etc.). If you are just cleaning greasy specimens, I wouldn't spend a lot on anhydrous molecular grade acetone and would opt for something more available in larger volumes, such as that found in hardware stores.