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Post by crackedegg on Oct 5, 2012 6:16:13 GMT -8
I have purchased the bucket traps available on bioquip and have them set up and ready to deploy but I am wondering what is the best way to store ethyl acetate in the bucket and how much would I need for a bucket to leave outside for ~8hrs and still have some effect on specimens.
I was thinking a sponge or sawdust contained on the side inside of the bucket. I have no idea how fast it will evaporate so do not know how much to put in.
Any information is greatly appreciated. Thanks
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Post by africaone on Oct 5, 2012 7:37:50 GMT -8
If the bucket is quite closed you can put lay of gypsum in the bottom and it will keep the EA sufficient time for a night. you can make a small hole in the gypsum layer to inject the EA the more bottom as possible.
You can also put a layer of sawdust bottom the gypsum layer.
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Post by prillbug4 on Oct 5, 2012 9:54:36 GMT -8
I either use a no pest strip or pour the ethyl acetate on a large wad of cotton that I've placed in the bottom. It lasts throughout the night. Sawdust tends to get too wet and it sticks to the insects body and wings. Jeff Prill
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WillM
New Member
Posts: 14
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Post by WillM on Oct 5, 2012 13:24:46 GMT -8
Being a beetle guy I've always used a jar of alcohol below the funnel. But poking through the mess afterwards looking for the beetles leaves a lot to be desired. Ethyl acetate seems a better way to go. Should the chemical just be sprinkled on gypsum/cotton/whatever scattered on the bottom of the trap or would putting the substrate plus chemical in a small container placed on the bottom of the trap work better? It would seem that the small container would last longer between charges but maybe that would not get the vapor concentration high enough. With a relatively tight trap that might not matter. Comments appreciated.
Will
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leptraps
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Posts: 2,397
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Post by leptraps on Oct 6, 2012 17:17:20 GMT -8
If you would have purchased a Light Trap from Leptraps. You would have received everything you would need to use your light trap except the Battery. Leptraps provides 1/2 Pint Cans with wicks, two per trap. Leptraps also sell them separately. You can make your own. Purchase the 1/2 cans from from a Sherwin Williams paint store and the sponges at WalMart. Punch or drill a .75 inch hole in the lid and cut the sponge in the shape of a "T". Look at the photograph, you will get the idea. Fill the can with Ethyl Acetate, allow the sponge to slowly sink into the Ethyl Acetate and place the can in the bottom of your trap. Remove the can carefully in the morning. I carry a small funnel, pour the remaining Ethyl Acetate into the original container. I dislike the smell of EA. I use an old butterfly net bag, after I remove the remaining fluid from the can, I squeeze the excess out of the funnel into the funnel, I then place the can and the lid with the wick into an old butterfly net and hang it out the back of my van tail gate. I drive some distance before stopping (Something several hundred miles when on a trip) and the Ethyl Acetate has evaporated and place the net bag with the cans and wicks inside the vehicle. Do not enclose the cans in a container as the Ethyl Acetate will rust out the cans. When you buy a Leptraps Light Traps you get all of this information as well. Attachments:
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Post by Chris Grinter on Oct 7, 2012 11:34:51 GMT -8
The can and wick method is the ideal solution for using acetate in a trap. Any bottle (short and fat is good so it doesn't tip over) with a wick will work well!
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