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Post by exoticimports on Aug 13, 2020 5:21:12 GMT -8
Well, after decades one would think I'd have setting specimens set to a science.
With the exception of my Lycaenidae board, all my boards are shallow, meaning after the specimen is dry I have to push it up to a proper height on the pin.
Recently, freshly capture specimens are giving me a heck of a time, in that the thorax dries solid on the pin before the wings are 100% dry; in trying to push the specimen up the pin, it's set like glue, yet the wing joints will flex. I could let the specimen dry longer, which probably won't impact the thorax dried to the pin, but may well induce breakage of the wing joints.
I believe I've identified the culprit. I'd always used the black (enameled) steel pins; now I'm using stainless. I believe the thorax dries stronger to the stainless than the enamel.
In that I of course bought thousands of stainless #3, I hate to not use them.
Any thoughts, other than the obvious buy enameled pins or deeper boards?
Thanks,
Chuck
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Post by Paul K on Aug 13, 2020 6:08:10 GMT -8
Well, after decades one would think I'd have setting specimens set to a science. With the exception of my Lycaenidae board, all my boards are shallow, meaning after the specimen is dry I have to push it up to a proper height on the pin. Recently, freshly capture specimens are giving me a heck of a time, in that the thorax dries solid on the pin before the wings are 100% dry; in trying to push the specimen up the pin, it's set like glue, yet the wing joints will flex. I could let the specimen dry longer, which probably won't impact the thorax dried to the pin, but may well induce breakage of the wing joints. I believe I've identified the culprit. I'd always used the black (enameled) steel pins; now I'm using stainless. I believe the thorax dries stronger to the stainless than the enamel. In that I of course bought thousands of stainless #3, I hate to not use them. Any thoughts, other than the obvious buy enameled pins or deeper boards? Thanks, Chuck 100% deeper boards. Stainless steel pins are the best.
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Post by mothman27 on Aug 14, 2020 9:47:22 GMT -8
You will save yourself so much trouble by using deeper boards. I personally prefer the enameled pins for their aesthetics and I seem to have more "spinners" on stainless steel pins. This is just my opinion, I think there are advantages to stainless as well.
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Post by kevinkk on Aug 14, 2020 10:39:58 GMT -8
Another interesting topic. I like the black enamel pins for they way they look, and I would guess that stainless would have less of a tendency to stick to the body. I do have stainless pins that I am beginning to use, so we'll see. What struck me as unusual, was the practice of pinning the specimen at a height different than what ends up in the display case. I use different size boards, and always pin the body at the height I want the specimen to remain. Is there a purpose to moving the body after the wings are set? While we're at it- I use flat boards, I know there are boards that are angled. Am I doing it wrong?
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