Labels - What Paper?

[coloradeo]

I use a laser printer to print my labels and some 32lb laser printer paper for the paper itself. What do you all use / recommend for paper? Anything special beyond "heavy paper"?

Eric

[nomihoudai]

Acid free paper or something that would translate to as 'paper for documents' known as DIN EN ISO 9706 is recommended by museums.

Acidic paper might not hold the ink well and attack the needle in some decades.

Laser printer is good. Don't go for ink as even basic humidity might deteriorate the readability of the label.

[alandmor]

See below for a recent thread about label paper and printing labels from another entomology forum. I have purchased some of the 200g glossy HP brochure paper but have not tried it yet. Apparently it has the approval of the Smithsonian Institution's archive folks and is used by several collection managers on color laser printers with good results.

=============================================================

From: Entomological Collections Network Listserve [mailto:[e-mail]] On Behalf Of Michael S Caterino
Sent: Friday, December 01, 2017 8:59 AM
To: [e-mail]
Subject: Re: Pinned Label Paper


I second this. We tried the glossy brochure paper starting about a year and a half ago, following Matt’s recommendation, and have used it ever since. I’m a big fan. Agree too on the color laser doing a much better, higher resolution job than any black & whites at our disposal.


3 pt is way too small though!


Mike

------------------------------------------------------------------
Michael S. Caterino
Morse Chair of Arthropod Biodiversity
Director, Clemson University Arthropod Collection
Department of Plant and Environmental Sciences (PES)
MAIL: 277 Poole Agricultural Center
OFFICE: E-254 Poole Agricultural Center
Clemson University
Clemson, SC 29634-0310
[e-mail]
Office phone: [phone]
LAB: sites.google.com/site/caterinolab/
MUSEUM: sites.google.com/site/clemsonarthropodcollection/
------------------------------------------------------------------


On Dec 1, 2017, at 11:01 AM, Buffington, Matt <[e-mail]> wrote:


Crystal,


It depends on the printer.


We use 200g glossy HP brochure paper, and run this through a color laser jet (even though we only use black). Color laser jets using an entirely different kind of pigment that polymerizes to smooth surfaces. Its super durable, does very well in ethanol and PG, and the labels are ultra crisp. I routinely print at 3pt font now, and its very legible. Let me know and I can send you the ordering info. Also, we are using a Brother 4570 CDW networked printer.


The brochure paper was tested by the SI archives folks and passed their approval. This paper is calendared, meaning the core of the paper is fibrous, but the surfaces are rolled ultra smooth (glossy, like magazines). Lastly, the 200g paper grips pins very well, and I have tried removing/replacing labels, using the original holes, and the firmness of the labels remains true.


Matt


Matthew L. Buffington, PhD
Hymenoptera Unit, Systematic Entomology Lab, USDA
c/o National Museum of Natural History
Smithsonian Institution
POB 37012 NHB, CE519, MRC 168
Washington, DC 20013-7012
U.S.A.

202-633-4552


On Dec 1, 2017, at 10:31 AM, Crystal Maier <[e-mail]> wrote:


Hi All -


What does everyone use for their pinned label paper? Currently at the Field, we've been using "100% rag long grain sub 52 lbs" The only trouble is, I cannot find this paper or anything even similar anywhere.

I'm just trying to get a feel for some tried and tested alternatives that other collections use.


Thanks!


Crystal

--

Crystal A. Maier, Ph.D.


Insects Collection Manager
Field Museum of Natural History

1400 S. Lake Shore Dr.
Chicago, IL 60605
312.665.7745
Twitter: @dryopoiddarling
Skype: Crystal.A.Maier

[jshuey]

BioQuip sells an acid free paper that I've used for years. It's a slightly heavier weight than typical paper but still runs through a laser prinyter with no problems. It makes a great label. It's slightly off-white but I don't notice it.



From their on-line catalog - 1223PA Printed Label Paper Pack of 25 Sheets $6.25

Product description: With increasingly widespread use of Xerography and PC printers, it is possible to prepare, reduce and print small quantities of printed labels in a short time. The same high quality paper used for BioQuip printed labels to assure legibility and permanence is available in blank sheets.
Label paper is 36-pound off-white linen ledger, 100% rag. It is archival quality, acid free with a 7.5 pH. The paper has a smooth, hard finish, and a labeling pen will not pluck the fibers. It is suitable for dry labeling only. See 1223RA for label paper suitable for data placed in an alcohol or formaldehyde container. Sheets are 8-1/2 x 11".


John

[exoticimports]

I also use the Bioquip paper thru the printer. Since 2001 and no fading or other issues.

Chuck

[Paul K]

Most of the laser print papers are acid free now, except recycled once but I don’t think they are capable with laser printers anyway.
I buy it in Staples but I don’t remember what kind now and I can’t check as I am out of the country. All I can say that they are much cheaper than Bioquip, 500. Sheets for about $25.00 if I remember well.
It is also 32lb, I used in the past heavier paper but I found out that it spinned on smaller sized pins when drawers were rotated.


Paul
PS. I was going to check it on line but Staples denied access from Thai IP address.

[coloradeo]

Thanks much for the replies. I will give the suggestions a try. The BioQuip sounds like a good option and I know where to find that (but missed it in my frequent shopping there). Do we think the HP Paper is the "Q6608A"? I'll try both in my laser printer and see if they both perform well. Appreciate the insights. Eric

[leptraps]

I have use Bright White Semi-Gloss Card Stock since I began collecting and used a quill pen to print my labels. I graduated to a Rapidograph pen sometime in High School and a standard size label 3\4" wide X 1/2" length. I used hand printed labels until inkjet printers came along. I still maintained the 3/4" (.75) wide format with 5 font size with a variable length. It is uniform and has been maintained in my collection for 60+ years.

I use this format for both locality and Identity label's. It just works for me. I attempt to get as much info onto the locality labels as possible, including GPS.(I only began to use GPS in 1999 or 2000 when a hand held GPS device became available. Today every smart phone has a GPS APP.)

My entire collection is on 3×5 card file system. I use Genus, species, subspecies (when appropriate I add "form") and the MONA number. I have made no attempt to computerized my collection. I have over 120K specimens and I have better things to do with my time than sit in front of a computer for several months OR YEARS, and enter data. If anyone would like to volunteer, let me know.

I also include Leg. L.C. Koehn (Collected by) on the data label and Det. L.C. Koehn (Determined by) on the ID label. When others identify specimens, the name of that person is on the ID label.

The scientific value of your collection is determined by the information on your labels. I include the following information:

State
County
Specific location
Altitude
GPS
Name of Collector
Date of collection. (Day/Month/Year)
13 Feb 2018

Should I rear the specimen, I add an additional label with the following:

EX OVA or EX LARVA
Host plant (Scientific name)
Date enclosed
Date emerged.

I also place the empty pupae or Chrysalids case under the adult specimen.

Again, the more information on the labels will increase the scientific value of your collection.

Several years ago I saw a very large collection of Neotropical Lepidoptera that was donated to a large Museum that was only labeled with Country and a month and year for information.

I dislike the label paper from BioQuip. It has, or did, have a yellowish color to it.I bought a couple of reams of Bright White Semi-Gloss Card Stock Paper 10 or 15 years ago and will not live long enough to use all of it.

I have made it a habit to properly label my specimens. The paper is only the start.

I should mention, I still have the quill pens, Rapidiograph Pens, a Rapidiograph Cleaning kit and even ink. I have not used it 20 years or more.

[boghaunter1]

Hi All,

I have experimented with different weights of cardstock over the years... I started out with acid free 32 lb (from BioQuip)... still too thin & curls up. I then moved up to 67 lb (various brands)... much better, but, couldn't find a really pure white cardstock... until a couple of years ago when I switched to an even heavier 100 lb cardstock. I could never find what I wanted (very stiff/heavy & brilliant white) at any local office supply stores (Staples) so I went online at Amazon & eventually found what, IMHO, was the nicest, acid free, smoothest (on both sides), stiffest, & brightess (100 brightness) cardstock ever. It is made by International Paper, Hammermill brand ...called Cover Copy Digital Cover (with a green tree frog on the front wrapper)... it works wonderfully with my higher end Canon Inkjet printer & I can easily print 5 line labels (in Arial) from 3.0, 3.5, 4.0, 4.5, 5.0, & 6.0 Pt. & everything is easily readable. Hammermill also makes a laser printer version of this cardstock (with a big blue Morpho butterfly on the Wrapping paper!)... labels from those should be even clearer! I bought 2 - 250 sheet bundles... should keep me going for a while. This cardstock is expensive, but worth it (labels are just as important as the specimens themselves & should last decades/centuries)... I paid about $35.00 CAD (< $USD) per bundle, but am finally happy. I like the extra thickness as I also mount some insects on smaller cards (like in Europe) & they don't curl. I've also printed labels on heavy 65 lb glossy photo paper (Kirkland brand from Costco) & had excellent (easily legible to 3.0 pt.)results.

In a related subject... what pens do you use?... I use the Japanese Pigma MICRON, archival ink, artist pens to handwrite any individual labels/fill in dates, time etc. They are completely water & alcohol proof. The smallest width used to be .005, but they now make an incredibly tiny .003! The Pigmas are also available at Amazon in all multiples & sizes. I use drafting, Staedtler, lumocolor, permanent ink markers (size S)to record data on all my small plastic ziplok bags that I keep all my field collected leps in. Sharpies in the smallest size are cheaper, more readily available, but are duller black & rub off plastic more easily. My personal experiences only...

John K.

[bandrow]

Greetings,

On the subject of pens - BioQuip sells the Pigma Micron pens for $2.65 (plus shipping). I found the same pens in our local JoAnn Fabrics store, in their Quilting section. They did not have them stocked in the art supply section or general pen section - only in the quilting supplies. They day I was there, they had an in-store sale going on with 40% off all quilting supplies and I bought a half-dozen Pigmas for around $1.65 each (no shipping!). I've checked a number of times since and they seem to carry them as a regular item. Not exactly where you'd expect to find these, but I'm happy to share the secret!

Cheers!
Bandrow

[jshuey]

As I read the above posts - three things jump to mind.

First, in addition to everything that Leroy mentions putting on your data labels, you should also include a habitat description. Something short and sweet, that in conjunction with the locality will make sense. For Indiana, terms like: old field, prairie restoration, oak savanna, riparian forest, glade, fen. One hundred years from now, this will clue people in to what you really found in the face of changing habitats.

Second - the race to find the smoothest gloss paper always worries me relative to laser jet printers. This is just a heat baked dust - and I've seen it flake off really smooth surfaces. You may end up with perfectly aged little squares of paper that don’t say anything in a few decades.

Third – based on what I’ve read, inkjet ink is not permanent. Will those labels still be readable 150 years from now?

I probably think about this stuff too much,
John

[Paul K]

John, you are right, I tried many papers and the smooth one actually didn’t work for laser printer. I wasn’t sure if it was toner or paper but I switched to regular paper ( acid free ) and the ink is sticking on properly, you might be correct that in few decades the print will be unreadable and with the inkjet printers I’ve heard that too that the print will not last long.

Paul

[jhyatt]

For longevity, I think nothing could beat India ink (think Leroy's Rapidograph pen)or a good sharp pencil on thick rag paper. Neither will fade with time. However, longevity isn't worth much if legibility of handwriting is a serious problem, which is the case with me! I'm using a laser printer on semi-gloss card stock and hoping for the best. I use 5-point boldface font, but employ 4-point on Lycaenid and small moth labels. But if a bug has an older, handwritten label, I keep it on the pin too.

Cheers,
jh

[boghaunter1]

Hello again,

I was going through some entomology related items I had downloaded to my computer from the internet about 10 yrs. ago & came across the following regarding paper, inks, longevity of labels dry & wet, etc. & some additional good advice on using & explaining different ways of expressing GPS coordinates.

Correct GPS Coordinates on Insect Labels expressed as:

The most practical solution to all of the above problems is to include geographic coordinates on each label in addition to the politically defined locality. Latitude and longitude are the most widely used, persistent and easily matched to most available maps. Other systems such as Universal Transverse Mercator (UTM) coordinates, military coordinates, or country-specific coordinate systems are not recommended because they are not indicated on many maps, and may be subject to change in the future. An appropriate level of resolution must be used for latitude and longitude readings. Degrees alone are essentially useless for pinpointing a locality; degrees and minutes are better but still are accurate only to within 1-2 kilometers in southern Canada. It is recommended that latitude and longitude readings be given to the second (95°40'12"W) or decimal degree to three decimal places (95.563°W or 95°40.2'W). This information is easily obtained in the field with handheld Global Positioning Systems (GPS).

Label Preparation Standards
Label Data Format
The following sequence is recommended:
COUNTRY: lesser political unit: exact locality (latitude and longitude)
date(s), collector(s),
collecting method, habitat
field code or unique identifier
Locality data should always be listed first and in the order specified. The sequence of date, collector, method and habitat data is more flexible and can be altered to better fit the available space. If a unique identifier code is used, it should appear last, on a separate line if possible, to facilitate retrospective data capture. Sample labels are shown below:

Labels will generally have 4-5 rows of data, especially if habitat information or unique identifier codes are included. Where possible, all collecting data should be on the same label; this avoids having to turn specimens upside down to read a second label back to back with the first, or twisting the upper label around to read the lower one.
Sans-serif fonts with uniform line thickness, such as Arial or Univers, are recommended because they are easy to read at small font sizes and parts of letters are less likely to be lost or filled in when printing. Font size for labels should be 3 or 4 point; 3 point is recommended for labels with a lot of data. Single line spacing should be sufficient, but this will depend on the combination of word processing software and printer used, and it may be necessary to reduce the line spacing to 0.9; lines on labels should be close together, but not crowded. Once a suitable combination of font/size/line spacing is found for a particular computer-printer combination, the specifications can be posted near the computer for subsequent users. This is especially useful in busy laboratories or on large projects where a number of people may be generating labels.
Printed labels should be no larger than 17 mm long by 6 mm wide. Using 3 point Arial font, this size will allow 5 lines of data with 29-32 characters per line (including spaces), which will be sufficient for most labels incorporating the recommended information. Labels of the same dimensions using 4 point font will be limited to 4 lines of 22-25 characters.
Cutting and Mounting Labels
Printed labels should be cut as closely as possible to the printed text so that extra white space is minimized. However, care must also be taken to avoid cutting pieces off lines of text. Although guillotine-type paper cutters are fast and efficient, they can produce rough or bent edges on labels and increase the chance of cutting off pieces of text or leaving wide margins around the edge of the label.
The pin should be placed through the centre of the label for pinned specimens; for specimens glued to points or cards the label should be offset so as to provide maximum protection to the specimen above it, and to minimize the space the specimen occupies in the drawer. Pins should be inserted through a space between letters on the label, not directly through a letter.
Labels should be properly oriented on the pin. The long axis of the label should be parallel to the long axis of the body of a directly pinned specimen, or the point or double mount. The text on the label should be readable with the specimen, point or double mount facing to the left.
Label Production for Pinned Specimens
Paper for pinned labels should be white with a smooth surface. For long-term stability paper should be acid free (or archival quality); this information is generally indicated on the packages of commercially available papers. The weight should be heavy enough to hold the pin securely and resist curling. A weight of 36-40 pounds is recommended as a minimum; the cover stock listed in Appendix 1 is heavier, up to 60-pound. Some recommended brands and sources of label paper are given in Appendix 1.
Laser printers and better quality inkjet printers produce print of high enough quality for permanent labels. The resolution should be set as high as possible (at least 600 dots per inch is recommended, 1200 dpi is preferable) to ensure sharp edges and good separation of letters. Many computer programs have been developed over the years for generating insect labels; most of these are variations on Microsoft Word® or Corel Wordperfect® macros. Each label program has its strengths and weaknesses as well as a limited distribution and an apparently brief life expectancy. Many collectors simply generate labels using a standard word processing program and block and copy sufficient labels for their needs. This process is easy and rapid in larger studies where most of the labels have similar data except for selected fields. A file of master labels can be generated and altered as necessary.
Label Production for Fluid Preservation
Two different types of wet storage are considered in this section. The first is the permanent labelling and storage associated with immature specimens, soft-bodied adults or arachnids in ethanol, formalin or other fluids. The second relates to the increasingly widespread use of bulk sample residues as a source of research material. Residues are often viewed as "temporary" storage, but the amount of time specimens may spend in residues, and the repeated disturbance of the sample for sorting in different laboratories, make labelling issues anything but temporary.
Regular label paper should not be used for fluid-preserved specimens because it will break down after a period of immersion. Resistall® paper is manufactured to withstand immersion in fluids (including ethanol and formalin) without losing its dimensional stability. Resistall paper is not acid free; it has a pH of approximately 5.3. However, the acid leaches out of the paper quickly in fluid and, if desired, the fluid can be changed after the paper has been immersed for a short period of time. Paper for fluid preservation does not have to be as heavy as paper for pinned specimens; the Resistall paper listed in Appendix 1 has a weight between 28 and 36 pounds. Resistall paper was almost impossible to find in the early 1990’s but, largely in response to requests from the museum community, some manufacturers now produce suitable paper. Sources of label paper with Resistall are given in Appendix 1.
There are still conflicting views on the long-term stability of labels produced on laser printers for fluid preservation. Many users in the early days of laser printers reported letters flaking off wet labels until the labels were unreadable. The problem lies in the strength with which the ink or graphite is bonded to the paper during the printing process. Smooth papers hold ink more securely than papers with a rougher texture, as do heavier weight papers. The difference in paper quality may explain some of the reported discrepancies in longevity of labels. The Royal Ontario Museum has been using laser printed labels in vials of ethanol for over 10 years with no apparent loss of label quality. In contrast, a set of test labels printed on regular bond paper in 1996 in the Lyman Entomological Museum is already partly illegible and a shipment of ethanol-preserved trap residues received at the Lyman Museum from a study in the summer of 2000 had lost entire letters on some labels after only 9 months. Heating a printed page from a laser printer for one minute in a microwave oven may help to bond the text more securely to the page, but there is no indication of how much longer the labels will last using this method. The safest alternative, as used at the Royal Ontario Museum, is to ensure that the back of each printed label bears a unique identifier code written on the label in India ink.
Inkjet printers may provide more resistant labels than laser printers. At the Canadian Museum of Nature, labels for fluid preservation are generated using an inkjet printer with a Lexmark® model 12A1970 black ink cartridge, which prints using fadeproof and waterproof pigment ink. In addition to Lexmark printers, this cartridge is also compatible with some other brands of inkjet printers. Text on labels printed using this cartridge is not soluble in ethanol, acetone, ethyl acetate or ammonia provided that labels are allowed to dry for at least 24 hours before immersion in alcohol (F. Genier, pers. comm.).
The ink used for hand-written labels must be alcohol-proof and dark enough to be readable after long time periods. Ballpoint ink is obviously undesirable as it dissolves in alcohol; soft pencil is better but can still fade enough that it becomes difficult to read after just a few weeks. Labels for preservation in fluids should be written in India ink, or other waterproof black ink. Technical pens, like those made by Staedtler® or Koh-I-Noor®, work well but are expensive and subject to clogging in the field. Disposible permanent ink pens such as Micron Pigma® pens or Staedtler® Pigment Markers are highly recommended and come in a range of point sizes (.01 or .005 give a very fine line for small script). They are available at art and drafting supply stores for approximately $3.00 each. The ink dries quickly and does not fade or run after several years in ethanol.
Sample residues often spend a long time in storage, with specimens, vegetation, small rocks, etc. rubbing against the label. Recommendations for regular fluid labels apply here as well, with the caution that the increased debris in residues can result in label ink being abraded more easily. An extra printed label or hand-written label inside the sample is insurance against damage. In addition, an extra label attached to the outside of the container can make things easier in several ways: the residue can be identified without having to open the sample to locate the label; a large exterior label can be annotated to indicate which taxa have already been removed from the residue; and a unique identifier code can be associated with the residue to track its progress through various institutions.


This is the article I used & based some of my former comments on. My current Canon printer has 6 different ink tanks, including regular black & a larger archival (pigment-based) black ink tank. I've had no problems with any of my labels as pigment based inks are reported to be very stable. Time will tell... I thought all labels will soon be digitized if collections end up in museums anyway... oh... how long do solid state (like flashdrives) supposed to last or the plastic of cd's or mechanical hard drives (yeech!...)?

John K.

[alandmor]

Feb 12, 2018 20:04:50 GMT -8 coloradeo said:

Thanks much for the replies. I will give the suggestions a try. The BioQuip sounds like a good option and I know where to find that (but missed it in my frequent shopping there). Do we think the HP Paper is the "Q6608A"? I'll try both in my laser printer and see if they both perform well. Appreciate the insights. Eric

I have now tried the HP 200g (52 lb.) glossy brochure paper (Q6608A) on a color laserwriter printer and have to agree with the previous comments. They're the best looking labels I've seen. The lettering (Arial, 3.5 point) is clear and crisp, the paper cuts cleanly, holds a pin well, and I like the glossy look. Highly recommended.