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Post by bichos on Feb 7, 2012 16:52:25 GMT -8
I often have difficulty catching Nymphalids after they have emerged in order to kill them. I find that whilst trying to catch them they often get damaged. I am going to place this specimen in a cardboard box and in a fridge overnight: This will allow it to harden its wings and it will not fly and damage it self, as it will be too cold to fly. Then I will place it in the freezer as a most humane way to kill it and minimize handling leaving me with an A1+ specimen  can anybody suggest an easier way to do it as I cannot do this with every specimen as I wont be aroumd all day/night to process the other secimens as they emerge.  any feedback/suggestions would be appreciated Attachments:
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what
Junior Member
Posts: 22
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Post by what on Feb 7, 2012 19:47:21 GMT -8
A simple way to manage small numbers of pupae when they are not a large species is to utilize 16oz or 32oz deli cups/clear containers/whatever name you prefer. A sheet of paper towel trapped between the lid and rim will allow a place to anchor the pupae and also for the butterfly to rest. The whole thing can be placed in the fridge or freezer directly - my freezer has a nice space left over the ice maker that I use.  I used this to manage a group of Polygonia satyrus I reared last year, of course they pupated shortly before I left on a vacation. Each got its own cup and I got 3 essentially A1+ specimens aside from my own mistakes while pinning. For your butterfly that has already emerged...I dont really have any tips other than to cool it down in the fridge if possible and grab it in a dark/dim room. Hopefully that provides enough cover for you to manage it. |
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Post by nomihoudai on Feb 7, 2012 23:47:34 GMT -8
I don't know if they dry properly in the fridge? I leave my butterflies that hatch for 24 hours in a room that I darken by putting something in front of the window. After that the butterflies sleep and I just grap them and pinch them like regular specimen in the wild. Before pinching them I also check if they are ok and have no damage malformations, otherwise I release them (if they are native from local stock). The pinched specimen may of course not be dead completely and I put them in the freezer for a while. Altough I must agree that pinching Charaxinae is not an easy task Nice specimen by the way. |
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Post by africaone on Feb 8, 2012 0:33:11 GMT -8
the best (that I used) is a combination.
let is 24h in the dark at around 3-4 D° (to avoid to move and have nice color) and put it after in the deep freezer to kill him !
Be careful to not open the box immédiately after removing out the deep freezer to avoid condensation on the wings.
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Post by bichos on Feb 9, 2012 1:04:10 GMT -8
Thank you all for the helpful insights above.
Just as I suspected the limiting of heat and light are essential elements for handling specimens, in order to minimize damage.
I also like the cup idea, I once saw this being used in a butterfly house to good effect. The two main reasons were:
1 scheduled butterfly release and talk
2 disease control
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I used this to manage a group of Polygonia satyrus I reared last year, of course they pupated shortly before I left on a vacation. Each got its own cup and I got 3 essentially A1+ specimens aside from my own mistakes while pinning.
