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Post by jamesd on Nov 3, 2011 23:14:29 GMT -8
I am about to convert my whole collection from it's old, poorly spread and pinned form into it's new and correctly spread form. I tried removing the pin of one invaluable specimen, and relaxing it with a syringe of hot water - success. But with the second and third I made a mess and a head/abdomen were smushed, when trying to get it off the pin.
So my question is: how can I decrease the chance of damage to specimens when taking them off the pin, and how should I take them off the pin? I thought it would be a good idea to know this before I ruin my whole collection. (BTW: My method of getting the butterflies off the pin is to try and swivel the specimen on the pin with forceps and then press down from above. It's risky. What about relaxing it in a relaxing chamber before removing the pin?)
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Post by wollastoni on Nov 4, 2011 1:19:10 GMT -8
I don't have a "no risk method". I put it on the spreading board with bands to maintain the wings. Then I pull on the pin while pushing on the thorax.
Most of the time it works...
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Deleted
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Post by Deleted on Nov 4, 2011 1:28:50 GMT -8
yes, gentle downward pressure from above the thorax works for me using the thumb and forefinger to put on the pressure but only when the specimen has been relaxed, never try it on a dry specimen.
Dunc
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Post by johnnyboy on Nov 4, 2011 7:20:21 GMT -8
One method you can try is to cool the specimen, with the pin, by leaving in the refrigerator for 30 minutes. This causes the metal pin to contract very slightly and will loosen the pin in many cases.
Johnny
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Post by dertodesking on Nov 4, 2011 12:02:22 GMT -8
I am about to convert my whole collection from it's old, poorly spread and pinned form into it's new and correctly spread form. I tried removing the pin of one invaluable specimen, and relaxing it with a syringe of hot water - success. But with the second and third I made a mess and a head/abdomen were smushed, when trying to get it off the pin. So my question is: how can I decrease the chance of damage to specimens when taking them off the pin, and how should I take them off the pin? I thought it would be a good idea to know this before I ruin my whole collection. (BTW: My method of getting the butterflies off the pin is to try and swivel the specimen on the pin with forceps and then press down from above. It's risky. What about relaxing it in a relaxing chamber before removing the pin?) Hi James, I've also had this problem having acquired set specimens from other collectors...different pin lengths, insects set at different heights on th pins etc...which wasn't very pleasing to the eye. I've tried the "brute force" method of pushing down on the butterfly thorax with one pair of forceps while holding the pin with another pair (as |Dunc pointed out this works better if you partly relax the specimen first) with mixed success and then Bill Garthe posted about his use of gin as a relaxant...and now it's what I use to remove insects from pins. How?... Well, just take a small artists' paintbrush, dip in gin and "paint" around the areas where the pin enters and exits the thorax. Leave for half an hour to an hour and then give the bug a gentle downwards push to see if it's come unstuck. Most of the time an hour is long enough but if it's still solid just re-apply gin and wait. The benefit of this is that you can get on with other things while you're waiting for the butterfly to become "unstuck" from the pin, you don't ahve to re-set the bug again (which invariably you do if you even partly relax) and best yet...if it all goes wrong you can drown your sorrows with a gin and tonic. Good luck with whatever method you use. Simon
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Post by wingedwishes on Nov 4, 2011 13:22:18 GMT -8
I don't have the experience that others here have but I do pull many pins from dried leps. I may do it more than many because I do it mostly for art. I grip the head of a pin with pliers and then use the other hand to hold the body between my thumb and forefinger. The pin point extends down between my fingers. I can then loosen the body from the pin by twisting the pin back and forth with the pliers. Once it is loose, it is usually easy to remove the pin.
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Post by lordpandarus on Nov 4, 2011 20:50:59 GMT -8
Put it in a relaxing box (just a sealed box with wet paper towels on the bottom) for a few hours. The pin will come out (and if you don't want to remove it it will be permenantly loose just by moving it a little). You can also re-spread your specimen right away. Previously set specimens only need a few hours in the relaxing box
There's almost zero chance a pin will stick to a re-spread specimen
Don't try injecting water in/on the specimen or whatever you were doing
Best way to avoid stuck pins in the first place is use a thin #1 pin on all papered butterflies (if you plan to remove the pin later).You guys know I place a lot of my specimen in rikers , so I get about 1 in 100 set specimens that stick to the pin
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Post by jamesd on Nov 6, 2011 23:41:51 GMT -8
I've successfully removed about another 10 specimens with no damage to them. I've relaxed them in the relaxing box, then in the freezer for a bit, then twist with forceps/push down and they all came off fine.
Unfortunately Simon, I am too young to legally obtain gin. But I'll remember that for the future anyway.
Oh, and the specimen that had it's head knocked off, I glued back on with super-glue, and I was surprised by how easy and well it worked.
Thanks guys.
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Post by downundermoths on Nov 6, 2011 23:56:05 GMT -8
I am pushing the pins down further on my Australian moth collection (several thousands) and am now using the 'gin around the pin' method... There have been very few problems so far, but I am still not convinced... Is it the gin, or brute force, that's doing the loosening ?? Barry
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myko61
Junior Member
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Post by myko61 on Nov 7, 2011 5:34:58 GMT -8
Rather than risk damaging a valuable or rare specimen, I would just cut and remove the upper and lower portions of the pin (as close to the thorax as possible) with a small pair of wire cutters. The type used in crafts. After relaxing, you can insert another pin. Hope this helps.
Norm
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Deleted
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Post by Deleted on Nov 7, 2011 5:53:47 GMT -8
its the gin giving you the brute force Baz
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Post by downundermoths on Nov 7, 2011 6:17:00 GMT -8
Hic...washat you say, bro
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Post by dertodesking on Nov 7, 2011 13:40:58 GMT -8
I am pushing the pins down further on my Australian moth collection (several thousands) and am now using the 'gin around the pin' method... There have been very few problems so far, but I am still not convinced... Is it the gin, or brute force, that's doing the loosening ?? Barry Barry, The gin does seem to make some difference in my opinion...but it could be that any liquid would "relax" the area around the pin making it easier to move... I might try with different alcoholic liquids (and normal cold tap water) and see if it's as effective as the gin is. Simon
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Post by lordpandarus on Nov 8, 2011 1:06:54 GMT -8
Rather than risk damaging a valuable or rare specimen, I would just cut and remove the upper and lower portions of the pin (as close to the thorax as possible) with a small pair of wire cutters. The type used in crafts. After relaxing, you can insert another pin. Hope this helps. Norm yeah that works, I tried it
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Deleted
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Post by Deleted on Nov 8, 2011 1:53:07 GMT -8
the only thing the gin relaxes is Baz.
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