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Post by jshuey on Jul 16, 2018 8:52:37 GMT -8
hi all previously I had asked opinions, and I would like to thank all who answered. its greatly appreciated. locally here, some entomologists have now issued me a challenge - PROVE which is the best pin. So, I would like to seek opinions again please. If considering a formal study into which pin manufacturer has the best, what tests should one do? what factors should be taken into consideration? Any thoughts and suggestions? Thanks again. David My measure is pretty straight forward - price. I don’t really see much of a performance difference between insect pins – unless of course you buy those really cheap pins made in China. But for “professional pins”, do you really think there is a noticeable difference given today’s poly-foam pinning surfaces and humidity control? Stainless certainly had its role in the days of cork and poorly controlled humidity – but today – I’m not so sure. That said, two months ago the “best pin” cost me US$270+shipping for 10,000 pins. Essentially the same pins, if purchased in the US pins would have cost US$450+shipping from Bioquip or € 290+shipping from EntoSphinx (US$339+shipping). I swear by Petr at www.kabatek.cz/ and I have used his pins since I was a student back in the 80's. John
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Deleted
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Post by Deleted on Jul 18, 2018 6:20:59 GMT -8
I believe that Austerlitz is no longer in business(??). I do not know who owns the equipment, but I think they are making pins for BioQuip(??). Not sure who is who anymore. I find Austerlitz pins for sale here - but not sure if they are the REAL Austerlitz? entomoravia.eu/index.phpthe owner of the site (From Czech Republic) says "Austerlitz Insect Pins® is registered trademark of Entomoravia." but this doesn't confirm if it is the original make
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Post by Cassida on Sept 14, 2018 14:44:14 GMT -8
Austerlitz is german name of the Czech village Slavkov (near Brno). "Austerlitz" insects pins are probably the same origin as the most of pins from the Czech Republic. All brands like: Kostal (in Czech language: "Košťál"), Kabatek (in Czech language "Kabátek" = in english = "small jacket" , Petr Kabátek is entomologist - he is mainly interested in Cerambycidae), Entochrysis and Entosphinx probably have the same manufacturer. All of them are very good quality! I can help everyone with delivery of all named brands. Just ask me,...
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Post by Cassida on Sept 14, 2018 14:55:13 GMT -8
By the way, "Morpho" does not exists. It is old trademark. Now it is Entosphinx. I personally using insect pins from Kostal ("Košťál") and/or Entosphinx (doesn't matter).
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leptraps
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Post by leptraps on Sept 15, 2018 3:19:30 GMT -8
I had to read this thread over just to satisfy my Insect Pin sources. However, after reading John Hyatt's comments about spinners, I remembered how I solved the "spinner" problem. I have never used stainless steel pins, so this only applies to black enameled pins. I simply lick the pin. Saliva makes a good glue.
Caution, do not put the pin in your mouth. Should you swallow the pin it may lodge in your throat. Then you will have a pin with a DA for a head!!
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Post by mothman27 on Sept 15, 2018 3:34:07 GMT -8
I had to read this thread over just to satisfy my Insect Pin sources. However, after reading John Hyatt's comments about spinners, I remembered how I solved the "spinner" problem. I have never used stainless steel pins, so this only applies to black enameled pins. I simply lick the pin. Saliva makes a good glue. Caution, do not put the pin in your mouth. Should you swallow the pin it may lodge in your throat. Then you will have a pin with a DA for a head!! You lick every pin before putting into a specimen? I have not heard you mention this before. Thanks.
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leptraps
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Post by leptraps on Sept 15, 2018 3:47:21 GMT -8
Occasionally I will remount a specimen that a wing or wings has drooped or shifts for whatever reason. I relax the specimen, pin and all. When I remove the specimen from the relaxer, I replace the pin. To prevent a spinner, I lick the pin.
When you mount fresh specimens, the body juices/fluids will secure the specimen to the pin.
I have licked pins longer than most of you have been alive. And "NO", I have never swallowed one.
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goat
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Post by goat on Sept 20, 2018 6:01:11 GMT -8
In polish shop sphinx costs 2.75 usd and kostal costs 3.25 usd.
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Post by coloradeo on Sept 20, 2018 18:47:48 GMT -8
Occasionally I will remount a specimen that a wing or wings has drooped or shifts for whatever reason. I relax the specimen, pin and all. When I remove the specimen from the relaxer, I replace the pin. To prevent a spinner, I lick the pin. When you mount fresh specimens, the body juices/fluids will secure the specimen to the pin. I have licked pins longer than most of you have been alive. And "NO", I have never swallowed one. Someday someone will DNA sample one of your specimens and be pretty confused when the genetics show a hybrid they've never seen before -- a moth crossed with a waffle!
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amanat88
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Posts: 25
Country: Canada
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Post by amanat88 on Feb 18, 2019 4:19:31 GMT -8
I noticed Atelier Jean Paquet in Canada is selling Austerlitz pins. My question is, what size pin would you use for the larger Lepidoptera? I've been using #2 for everything but the largest insects I've pinned so far were specimens of Antheraea polyphemus, Hyalophora euryalus and Papilio rutulus. If I needed to pin something like Trogonoptera or Argema, what would be an appropriate size?
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Post by coloradeo on Feb 18, 2019 7:11:30 GMT -8
I use #4 for large Saturniidae, #2 for most Papilio and #1 for most other butterflies. I don’t use other sizes. Curious as to the practices of others...
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Post by Paul K on Feb 18, 2019 7:19:14 GMT -8
I use #4 for large Sphingidae,Erebidae, Saturniidae, Ornithoptera, #3 for medium Sphingidae, Erebidae, Saturniidae, large Papilionidae. #1 for Lycaenidae, small Geometridae and small moths #0 for small Lycaenidae and some micromoths Everything else go on #2. For microlepidoptera I use 0.15 size minuten pins and double pin on #3
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Post by jhyatt on Feb 18, 2019 7:19:15 GMT -8
I put most big things (larger moths, larger Papilios and Nymphalids) on #4 or #3, and try to use #2 on most of the rest. Really small Lycaenids and moths often wind up on #1, but I try to avoid that -- #1's bend too easily. My philosophy is to use the biggest pin that doesn't look to me to be disproportionately large. I know that's subjective, but that's what I do... jh
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Post by mothman27 on Feb 18, 2019 8:14:32 GMT -8
I use #2 for almost everything including all saturniidae. #0 for lycaenidae which I don't usually collect anyways. #7 for extremely thick insects like goliathus. Otherwise the labels must be up against the body.
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Post by fishnbugz on Feb 18, 2019 12:53:10 GMT -8
I pin most everything I catch myself while fresh, and spread as fast as possible. Sometimes that means baking specimens in a 150 degree oven to get them dry, and often at the peak of the season I have pinned insects on styrofoam in the extra freezer waiting their turn on the boards. I have too many other hobbies to get too expensive on anything bug related, so I use "extra long satin" stainless steel pins from Walmart. Maybe about 1/4" shorter than an insect pin, and fairly heavy...cost about a penny apiece. Nothing spins ever if pinned fresh, and if I'm careful I can set them even into soft woods like cedar and spruce without bending them. I seem to have pretty good luck getting even the smallest butterflies and most moths too. I pinned that acleris species in the Catocala thread on these pins, so at least down to that size...other small insects I'm quick to use a triangle rather than wreck them.
Not that it has anything to do with the thread, but I have a small "hobby-size" bandmill in the backyard. With that I can take moderate sized logs/trees and slice them into boards. I made all the primary storage in my collection, from a variety of woods including oak, walnut, cedar, ash, mulberry, basically whatever I can get my hands on here in cornstalk country. I usually use plexiglass windows, and I've fashioned a bunch of temporary storage from things I can re-purpose that basically match the depth of a bug box. Old silverware cases, wooden game cases, whatever I can grab cheap that closes tight. I'll never be getting an official insect cabinet as long as BOAT is an acronym for "break out another thousand" dollars. Winter is long in Nebraska, so I've got plenty of time to play in the wood shop anyway.
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