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Post by martina on Dec 18, 2014 10:22:02 GMT -8
Hi all.
What do you do if you have a rip on the edge, and what about if in the middle?
Glue the edges of the rip?
Thanx
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Post by compsulyx on Dec 19, 2014 3:39:10 GMT -8
Hello Martina,
If you have a net RIP on the edge of the wing, you can apply some special glue on the reverse side by ensuring that both edges join perfectly. When glue starts to dry (put a very very fine layer), then move the wing to join the edges and stick them together). However for a big rip in the middle, larger, it's trickier. If you have some spare specimens of inferior quality, you can optionally gently cut a small tip from one of your examples of bad quality and paste it on the underside of the wing damaged to repair the big rip, allowing you to have a specimen roughly correct. But sometimes it is better to let the specimen damaged instead of repair it because you could damage it more if the work is not well done. You can judge yourself according to the severity of the rip.
Can you send us some pictures of the damaged specimen ?....it could be easier for us to advice then...
Thierry
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Post by exoticimports on Dec 19, 2014 6:55:14 GMT -8
Best to practice on a lesser value specimen when trying glue for the first time.
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Post by lordpandarus on Jan 4, 2015 0:39:10 GMT -8
White school glue (Aylmer,Lepage) doesn't work very well, it doesn't set in deep and the repair can be undone simply by the scales lifting off underneath, or it beads on the surface and is hard to apply .Repaired antennaes also fall of with school glue. White glue also dries with a milky tint and it looks terrible
If you use riker mounts do NOT use nail polish because it sticks to the filling even when dried
I use Crayola 3D project glue (white glue but is different than school glue, dries invisible,really sticks) or liquid bandage (tricky to use but can work)
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Deleted
Deleted Member
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Post by Deleted on Jan 4, 2015 13:48:47 GMT -8
Funny how various techniques are different. I do use white glue(Elmer's Glue-All), but I mix it with isopropyl alcohol. 50% glue with 50% alcohol. This thins the glue nicely to avoid the milky color referred to and (most importantly) the alcohol will evaporate leaving an ever-so-thin layer of glue to join the wing or patch. The other main reason I do use water-soluable glue like this is so that if I have the need to undo the repair, for what ever reason, I simply toss the specimen into the softening chamber and 99% of the time, the repair will undo itself.
Now, I have never tried the liquid bandage approach, but am not against trying with a junker. Honestly, I don't know if the school glue mentioned is exactly the same as what I use. Interestingly...this last statement comes from a school teacher who is 95 school days away from retirement.
I usually make up a bottle of this glue/alcohol mixture and shake it very well each time prior to use. If I feel some of the alcohol has gone, I simply add a bit more alcohol until the thin non-globby mixture is again attained. Every so often, I toss out the mixture if it has sat a long time and make up a new batch.
With antennae, I do use rubber-tipped forceps. I also (very important) put the antenna into a drop or two of Gin for a few minutes before I monkey around with trying to set it on the specimen. Having it flexible and not so fragile greatly helps avoiding the dreaded breakage when attaching. I now can focus on the attachment and not the fear of breaking it...as much.
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Post by lordpandarus on Jan 5, 2015 14:10:16 GMT -8
You should try the Crayola glue, it really does dry invisible and seems to set deeper under the scales .It makes my antennae repairs look perfect instead of having a little glob ofglue I can see on an eye or something, or a shiny spot if you use nail polish when the glue becomes thicker over time I also add a bit of water in the bottle. This glue also has a non clog cap that really works . I hate those twist school glue caps that eventually become clogged and mangled trying to unto the clog this: www.deserres.ca/en-ca/products/games-and-activities-for-kids/crayola/project-glue/12/1020/ |
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Post by sanphilep on Jan 6, 2015 7:17:25 GMT -8
Hi Martina I have encountered problems in repairing butterfly wings and have tried various methods for repairing. One of my favourite glue that I like using both for wing repair and for antennae is the Revell glue 25g which even has a needle like spout from where the blue flows as you invert the container. It's a small blue container with a yellow cap from where the sheeted needle comes out. In some cases a wing or part of it can be attached from the underside. I many times remove the scales and use only the transparent wing to fix( papilio tails)ecc. The glue has to be applied in small quantity or else more damage will be made. Attached is a link of the glue I am talking about. I buy the glue from a model shop in Malta not from Amazon www.amazon.co.uk/Revell-39604-Contacta-Professional-Glue/dp/B000KJPUL0Hope this was of some help. |
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Post by lordpandarus on Jan 6, 2015 19:03:25 GMT -8
Doesn't this type of glue set too fast and not allow to make corrections? I've used something similar for plastic models
Scraping off scales is also risky to damage the specimen further or make a hole in the wing
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Post by sanphilep on Jan 16, 2015 9:55:26 GMT -8
Hi Martina
Scraping off scales from the piece of wing you are to fix with. As regards drying fast yes I agree but I get everything ready to fix and glue just before fixing. The problem with this glue is that you only have one chance to fix a wing. I some times turn the butterfly upside down put the piece of wing and than glue so I do not need to move it. Caution has to be taken not to rest the wings on polystyrene as this type of glue will melt the material.
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Post by crino on Nov 9, 2015 13:08:12 GMT -8
Hi all how would you fix cracked tails like these?   Thanks very much! crino |
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Post by nomad on Nov 9, 2015 13:28:22 GMT -8
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Post by bobw on Nov 9, 2015 14:44:33 GMT -8
Hi all how would you fix cracked tails like these? Thanks very much! crino I've glued a piece of bristle from a stiff paint brush down the vein on the underside of the tail, this holds it in place and is invisible from the upperside. Bob |
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Post by crino on Nov 9, 2015 22:50:26 GMT -8
Hi all how would you fix cracked tails like these? Thanks very much! crino I've glued a piece of bristle from a stiff paint brush down the vein on the underside of the tail, this holds it in place and is invisible from the upperside. Bob That's a very good idea Bob!  I'll try it and show you the result... Thank you very much  crino |
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Post by exoticimports on Nov 10, 2015 5:37:04 GMT -8
Yes, thanks Bob, much better idea than the strip of thin paper I use. Your solution seems so obvious in hindsight!
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Post by maurizio on Nov 18, 2015 9:56:55 GMT -8
I've glued a piece of bristle from a stiff paint brush down the vein on the underside of the tail, this holds it in place and is invisible from the upperside. Bob Usually I do the same!! |
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