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Post by wollastoni on Jan 8, 2013 14:44:05 GMT -8
A bad day... For the first time in my life, 2 of my drawers have been infested by Dermestidae... I found one single larvae in each drawer. The first one ate only 1 common Cyaniris semiargus... But the second one ate 4 of my Delias, not very rare ones, but including two I caught myself in Papua, so very important to me ! CAN YOU EXPLAIN ME HOW THEY CAME HERE ! These drawers are new and haven't been recently opened ? How the hell could an adult dermestidae enter these drawers to lay eggs inside ? Or does larvaes are small enough to enter, even recent drawers  I have learnt today that one single larvae of them can make a lot of damage... hopefully I saw it today and not once it has devasted the whole drawer... THEN second question. I have no freezer at home and paradichlobenzene is now hard to find in France. I have put acetate ether in those infested drawers. As it kills live Carabidae, it should kill all potential dermestidae infection, shouldn't it ? But my fear is acetate ether may soften butterfly wings and they might fall down, what do you think ? Thanks for your help. It's the first time those bloody dermestidae enter my drawers... after 22 years collecting leps... |
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Post by bandrow on Jan 8, 2013 15:34:54 GMT -8
Greetings,
Sorry to hear of your "attack" - but it is an inevitable event for every collector. The first thing to check is to see if the drawers are actually airtight - even the tiniest imperfection in the seal will allow the early instar larvae to gain access.
I have had similar infestations of seemingly impervious drawers and I am convinced that dermestids often gain access to a drawer by "hitch-hiking" on newly added specimens which have become infested with the tiny larvae while on the spreading boards. It is a good idea to occasionally freeze your spreading blocks or boards, and if using any kind of paper liner on the board - in the case of beetle prep - always replace it after every use.
Also - I have found larvae in empty unit trays in my unit tray storage boxes. The adults apparently lay eggs in the trays, which can have small amounts of scales or insect parts in the crevice between the foam and cardboard. Placing a new specimen in an infested tray is like serving dinner to the little buggers.
Good luck in warding the little bas*%rds off in the future!!
Cheers!
Bandrow
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Post by lepidofrance on Jan 8, 2013 16:18:57 GMT -8
Because it hab been told me that w'ill have soon a lunch together, I'll bring you some paradichlorobenzene if you want !  |
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Post by britishcanuk on Jan 8, 2013 21:38:33 GMT -8
If acetate ether is anything like ethyl acetate I would avoid putting it near the foam backing on the drawers, it desolves it and makes a real mess.
R~
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Post by africaone on Jan 8, 2013 23:47:39 GMT -8
the two main causes of infestation are
- a new specimen (not treated) put in the box
- box not impervious (even a small space is enough ! i.e. the glass not well fixed or the back of the box ! espacially old boxes !).
if only 1 larva entered, it will destroy only 1 or very few specimens as it will die after eclosion. If more entered and provided a couple, you can lost all the box !
many Museum or collectors now use freezing method as some parasit are resistant to most chemicals !
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Post by johnnyboy on Jan 9, 2013 1:39:02 GMT -8
Transfluthrin is a relatively new pyrethrioid insecticide that exhibits a vapour pressure and is very toxic to insects, so ideal for use in insect drawers. It is sold either in sachets, or absorbed onto orange balls (handy for pinning in insect drawers).
Sold in the "zero range".
Johnny
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Deleted
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Post by Deleted on Jan 9, 2013 1:44:26 GMT -8
Olivier, as has already been said, the likelyhood is that they hitched a ride on an already infected specimen. What are your drawers lined with?, is it plastazote, cork or polystyrene and are you able to take out the lining of the drawer?
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Post by africaone on Jan 9, 2013 1:48:05 GMT -8
chemicals must be avoid as it reinforce the resistance of the parasite !
and bad for health !
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Post by wollastoni on Jan 9, 2013 2:46:32 GMT -8
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bas
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Post by bas on Jan 9, 2013 2:53:21 GMT -8
do these beetles come inside dried butterfly specimens for example? and then pop out indside youre drawers? im a beginning collector and just ordered my first drawers and off course I want to carefully protect my collection so do I have to put these orange balls inside the drawer or do I have to put my butterflies in a freezer for a night ?
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Post by africaone on Jan 9, 2013 2:59:55 GMT -8
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Post by johnnyboy on Jan 9, 2013 3:07:54 GMT -8
Zeninsect Proofer does have Transfluthrin as the active ingredient. The balls change from orange to white when all the transfluthrin has evaporated, good to know when to replenish them.
I shouldn't be concerned about the toxicity, just wash your hands after handling them.
Johnny
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Post by wollastoni on Jan 9, 2013 6:11:00 GMT -8
Thanks Johnny, I think I will have no choice but to use them. Just for you to know, it is dangerous for health, you can see Bayer (the producer) full report here : fluoridealert.org/pesticides/epage.transfluthrin.htm It does not give you the envy to use it... Must be the next banned chemical in Europe. I think Transfluthrin is not authorized in the US. |
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Post by bandrow on Jan 9, 2013 8:19:01 GMT -8
Greetings,
Bas - if you're asking if they can be hidden internally in dried specimens, the answer is usually no - at least not without some evidence of their presence. They feed by drilling in from the outside, leaving tell-tale brown powdery frass, and small holes where they entered the specimen. More often, they feed on the exterior of the specimen, chewing out a cavity on whatever part they've found. It's possible that one could get up under the elytra of a beetle and be less detectable, but if it's alive and feeding, the frass usually gives it away.
As was mentioned earlier - it's always a good idea to freeze material before putting it into a collection. I regularly freeze any new papered material for a couple of weeks before preparing it. In the case of typical home freezers, it is best to freeze for at least two weeks.
The temps in a normal freezer are such that the dermestids placed in them can adapt to the cold by building up compounds in the haemolymph that act as an antifreeze. They can survive a short time in freezing temps but cannot persist more than a few days. Here in the museum where I work, we have two large walk-in flash freezers that drop from room temp to -17F in less than four hours. At this rate of temperature drop, the dermestids cannot adapt fast enough, and are killed. We still freeze for a minimum of three days, just to be sure.
It is also a good idea to refreeze an infested drawer a few weeks after the initial freezing. If you have more than one dermestid in the drawer, allowing the possibility for eggs to have been laid, the initial freezing may not kill the eggs. A second round of freezing will kill any newly hatched larvae and help prevent reinfestation.
Cheers!
Bandrow
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bas
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Post by bas on Jan 9, 2013 10:33:14 GMT -8
Hi thats very good advice But just to be sure if I have a spread butterfly and I put it in my home freezer next to my pizza's and tomatoes etc it will not be damaged by temperature ?
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